>HS1010: Some patterns I want to keep track of
23 Aug 2010 Leave a Comment
in HS101
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#9395: Ladies’ Tucked Waist: Circa 1915
#405 Two Tucked Waists.
404 Edwardian Gibson Tuck Blouse.
#4830: Ladies’ One-Piece Kitchen Apron: Circa 1910
#5462: Skirts: 1910 – 1913
>HS101: Mock rolled hem by hand
17 Aug 2010 1 Comment
in heirloom sewing, HS101
>Supplies
- Needle (size 10 crewel needle)
- thread to match fabric this is a regular weight 100% cotton sewing thread
- fabric
How to:
- Clean up edge by trimming off all ravels
- turn the raw edge to the wrong side (1/8 inch) (actual hem will be about 1/2 of this width that was pressed)
- press well
- Attach thread into the fabric fold (securing it well ie a knot)
- Make tiny stitch into the garment just below the raw edge. Go straight up and go into the fold travel for about 1/4 of an inch. * repeat this up and down motion in stitching. You should have a series of parallel lines (threads) see photo
- when you have made several of these make sure needle is in the fold in the top and pull the thread to close the opening. This will form a tiny rolled hem.
>HS101: Pintucks
14 Aug 2010 1 Comment
in heirloom sewing, HS101, sewing
>Supplies
#50 thread heirloom thread
1.6/70 twin needle
7 grove or 5 grove pintuck foot (I do not own a 7 groove foot wish I did)
I am using the wrong thread in the tutorial it is so you can see it. Because of its thickness it doesn’t make pin-tucks as well as it would with heirloom thread. But you will see good examples at the end of the post.
L 2.5
- Place twin needle in machine and attach grooved pintuck foot
- When using a twin needle you need to also have two threads of course feedinging into the needles here I have used two colors so you can see them in the photos to come.
- adjust tension as needed (the bottom tension will need to be a little tighter than normal to pull the two sides of the pin-tuck together)
- pull a thread
- the first pintuck is along the pulled thread hold fabric tight in front an back of the needle. Line up the left needle with the pulled thread line so the pulled thread is hidden and reinforced by this thread.
- To line up future pin-tucks place the last pin-tuck made into the out-most groove of the pin-tuck foot. While watching the outside groove with the last pin-tuck in it stitch the next one and continue doing this till you have all made that you need. The more groves you have your foot the wider you can place the pin-tucks from one another. You can place them in other groves if you desire them to be closer. I have not ironed these pin-tucks in this photo so things look a little way but if you notice the threads I have removed you can see the stitches are straight even out a few rows.
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- leave the tails long so you can use a needle and pull them to the back of the work and make a knot to hold the pin-tucks secure.
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The photo above and the ones below are from a dress I am making that is full of pin-tucks.
On a side note you can make your first line in other ways. Such as using a wash out marker and a ruler to mark your first line ( it will not be on the straight of grain thought) and then stitch on this line use heirloom sewing thread size 80 to stitch a straight stitch on the marked line them switch to twin needle and size 50 thread for pintucks.
One other way is to iron in a crease and use that as your guide same thing is true for this as the last it will not be on the straight of grain. You can do these two other methods but they are not the straight of grain methods nor are they the traditional methods.
>HS101: tatted lace to fabric
09 Aug 2010 3 Comments
>This type is done almost exactly the same as french lace to fabric.
Use DMC heirloom sewing machine thread when doing this for real and needle size#60, #65 or #70.
For the sample I will just be using normal sewing thread so you can see it easy in the photos and it will be a contrasting color for the same reason.
prep work
1. Cut 1 piece of lace and one piece of fabric the same length
2. Prep by starching and pressing both (using clean iron, and clean board, also use spray starch) ( if the tatting is homemade out of tatting cord it may not need starting but always better to starch than not to) this technique only works with store bought lace or homemade lace that has a crochet chain added to the header edge. The header edge is the edge attached to the fabric.
How to
W=3.0-4.0
L = 0.5
- place right sides together with the lace being 1/4 to 1/8 of an inch away from the edge of the fabric (this piece of lace is handmade by me in size 30 thread then I added a size 80 crochet edge in similar color so I could use a sewing machine to attach it)
- placement
- using zig zag stitch stitch over the edge of the fabric and the edge of the lace” the chain stitch”.
- sew zig zag satin stich
- press towards fabric
- wrong side before pressing
- right side
using correct thread this is what your finished piece should look like
right side finished
right side finished
>HS101: Lace to Fabric
07 Aug 2010 2 Comments
in heirloom sewing, HS101, sewing
>
For the sample I will just be using normal sewing thread so you can see it easy in the photos and it will be a contrasting color for the same reason.
prep work
- Cut 1 piece of lace and one piece of fabric the same length
- Prep by starching and pressing both (using clean iron, and clean board, also use spray starch)
How to
W=3.0-4.0
L = 0.5
- place right sides together with the lace being 1/4 to 1/8 of an inch away from the edge of the fabric
- using zig zag stitch stitch over the edge of the fabric and the edge of the lace” the header”.
- press towards fabric
using correct thread this is what your finished piece should look like
>HS101: Swiss Entredeux to Gathered Fabric and ribbon weaving
06 Aug 2010 Leave a Comment
in free patterns sewing, heirloom sewing, HS101
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How to judge amount of fabric 2 to 1 ( fabric to entredeux) is always a nice ratio I like to add 1/2 inch so I have a little on each end that is not gathered to go into the seams
- Make 2 rows of basting(gathering stitches) Place them 1/8 and 3/8 inch from edge to gather.
- Pull on one thread to gather being careful not to break the threads spread the gathers over thewhole length of the stitches
- to lay the entredeux such that the edge of the entredeux lies between the two gathering stitches. The red lines on the right in this photo are to show where the bottom gathering stitch is and wear the two new sets of straight stitches are to go.
- stitch in the ditch ( witch means right next to the entredeux stitches (see photo if confused) fabric should be right side up entredeux right side down (in other words right sides together) and entredeux on top
- L:2
- I made a mistake in mine I was supposed to do another row of stitching here 1/8 of an inch away from the one next to the entredeux I forgot to then I trimmed and realized it so with yours make sure there are two sets of lines of sewing
- trim next to last one
- Zig zag over the edge you just trimmed to hold it all together
- W:3
- L1
- Press entredeux with the seam pressed towards the fabric
- turn to front of work
- and zig zag into the entredeux holes and over the seam to secure the seam on the back to stay behind the fabric This is supposed to be real tiny stitches they just look big in the tutorial for the example so you can see it
- W1.5 -2 use which ever you need to to get into the hole of the entredeux and bearly go into the fabric
- L 1
- Remove basting thread
- Stream press the holes should disappear from the basting thread. Your thread should be the same color as your fabric. As you can tell mine left a residual it your threads match your fabric that will not be seen. As mine was such a screaming color it left damage. But even with that said they are almost impossible to see here too.
See how on these you can almost not see the basting thread marks and this one was not steamed.
This entredeux lends itself to ribbon weaving as youcan see the holes in the first one in the second they are filled with two colored ribbons this is a way of adding more detail and color to your item with out having to add a real expensive embroidery brightly colored insertion or by doing embroidery. Use a big eyed crewl embroidery needle to do the weaving. Your work in the weaving should look neat on the front and back do not let the ribbon twist. This one was steamed and the basting thread marks are gone.
>HS101: Tailors button hole
24 Jul 2010 Leave a Comment
in embroidery, heirloom sewing, HS101, sewing
>
I will be using a tailors button hole to finish the hem on the previous post. What most people call a button hole stitch is actually a blanket stitch and not very strong. Notice the running stitch first then the extra loop in the knot section. The knot section is to face the open part where the button passes through the garment. The fact that there is one more loop makes it take a little longer to wear out.
>HS101: Entredeux to Gathered Lace
20 Jul 2010 Leave a Comment
in heirloom sewing, HS101, sewing
>W= 2.0-2.5
L = 1.0
Use DMC heirloom sewing machine thread when doing this for real and needle size#60, #65 or #70.
For the sample I will just be using normal sewing thread so you can see it easy in the photos and it will be a contrasting color for the same reason.
prep work
- Cut 1 piece of entredeux and one piece of lace the lace should be 2 or 3 times as long as the entredeux it will be attached to the tan sample is 3 times longer the white samples are 2 times longer I like the look of the 2 times longer better but do what you like.
- Pull the header threads (usually thicker threads closest to the top) which will make the lace gather distribute the gathers evenly to the same length as the entredeux.
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- starch Entredeux and press
How too
- Trim the entredeux on the side that the lace is to be added to (make sure the right side is up)
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- With right sides up but the two pieces together under the sewing needle 1/4 inch from the edge of the start
- zig zag the two trims together
>HS101: Lace to entredeux
20 Jul 2010 Leave a Comment
in heirloom sewing, HS101, sewing
>Stitch length of 1.0
Stitch width of 2.0-3.0
Use DMC heirloom sewing machine thread when doing this for real and needle size#60, #65 or #70.
For the sample I will just be using normal sewing thread so you can see it easy in the photos and it will be a contrasting color for the same reason.
prep work
1. Cut 1 piece of French Lace and 1 piece of entredeux the same length
2. Prep by starching and pressing the lace and entredeux (using clean iron, and clean board, also use spray starch)
How to
- trim one side of the batiste off of the entredeux be careful not to cut the sewing on the entrdeux embroidery holing it together
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- With entredeux on left side of needle and lace on the right side butt the two pieces together with right sides up. Use the same start as before 1/4 inch away from the starting edge
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- using zig-zag stitch to sew the two pieces together making sure that on the left side the needle goes into the holes in the entredeux and over to the other side catching the header of the lace forming one piece of fabric
Example with the right threads used
>HS101: Entredeux to Fabric
20 Jul 2010 Leave a Comment
in free patterns sewing, HS101, sewing
>
For the sample I will just be using normal sewing thread so you can see it easy in the photos and it will be a contrasting color for the same reason.
prep work
- Cut 1 piece of entredeux and one piece of fabric the same length
- Prep by starching and pressing the fabric and entredeux (using clean iron, and clean board, also use spray starch)
How to
W=0
L=2.0
- DO NOT trim the entredeux
- lay entredeux and fabric right sides together with fabric on the bottom
- Sew a straight stitch to the right of the entredeux making sure not to go into the hole
- In this photo the entredeux has already been sewn to lace from another tutorial please don’t let that through you. You are looking at the straight stitch to the right of the entredeux . The blue line of stitches is the one relevant to this tutorial.
- trim edge off of fabric and entredeux trim to about 1/8 inch
W=3.0
L=1.0
- Zig zag the raw edges together do not go into the entredeux only go into the stitching line and over the raw edge to encapsulate it in thread and keep it from unraveling ( no stitches should have gone into the hole of the entredeux)
- Once again only pay attention to the bluezig zag stitxhes
- Press seam allowance toward the fabric the second one is shown in the correct colors to use for this fabric and entredeux
- this is from the front of the work
W=2
L=1
- on right side of fabric using a narrow zig zag stitch over the seam that joined the entredeux to the fabric the second photo is showing what it would look like if the lace was not attached yet
Shown here with correct thread
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