>QA: To answer another question…

>I received this email on April 17th:

I just found your web site. I really like it. It seems real, not scripted. :+) I love your work also. :+) I was wondering if you could help me with a pattern in a book you have!!! I can’t seem to find anything about it on the web, and don’t know any one who crochets. LOL. It is in the crochet year book volume 2, the Granny Girl Purse and Headband. Here is what I am having trouble with..

RND 8: join black to any corner ch-2 sp; ch 1, 5 sc in same sp; *sc in next 21 dc, 5 sc in next corner ch-2 sp; rep from* twice more; sc in next 21 dc; join in first sc.

How do you do 5 sc in that same sp?? It creates a chain, is it supposed to be like that? Or am I doing it wrong? I am at a complete loss with it, and am trying to make this for my niece. I would really appreciate any help you can give me.



I don’t know how many have this book but lots make granny squares so here is my answer….
First, if you are not the person in question, I will not post the entire pattern as that would be infringing on the owners copyright. But for explanatory purposes of the question, I left what she had written about round 8 so we would all be on the same page which, in the book, happens to be pages 138-139, and 162-163. The book is from “American school of Needlework” Volume 2 book 1336.

Please excuse the dots of blue paint on my nails and under them; it is from making a floral arrangement yesterday and I have to wait till it wears off. See previous post about work fun.

Ok, on to the question…

First off, on the previous round you only have chains in the corners on the sides of the granny; there are no chains, just sets of 3 dc.

This is different from the previous rounds. Just making sure you have the previous row correct. For some reason for the set up of the edge the author has you sort of decreasing by removing the chains in the previous round. That is a side note back to question.

You slip stitch into the space that the two chains made on the corner; do not slip stitch into any of the chains.

Showing slip stitch to attach to work

The ch1 gets you to the right height for the row to begin and counts as nothing in your pattern; just a height thing.

Showing chain 1 to get to right height.Showing start of first sc in ch 2 space. Also showing crocheting over tail to encapsulate it into the work so you don’t have to finish so many threads at the end of your work.

Now, in that same ch 2 space on the same corner where you joined, you are going to place 5 sc around those 2 chains.

Showing all 5 sc in chain 2 space, sorry bad photo.Showing the 5 sc in corner and the first 5 of 21 sc across side of granny square.

The next 21 stitches are in the top of the 7 sets of 3 dc between corners. then you place 5 sc around the next set of ch 2 in the next corner do this all the way around. It isn’t forming a chain; it is defining your corners with 2 sc per side and 1 for your corner point.

>QA Questions and Answers

>I get lots of people who send me emails on how to do certain techniques or how to understand patterns. So I made a new label that is in my tags on the side bar labeled QA. As I get these questions answered, I will post them here so others can find them easily and so the person with the question can find it easily most of all. I went back into all my old posts and added the QA label to 15 of them to help people find answers from the past.

(Hope this helps!)

>Irish crochet bonnet



Progress on the back of the bonnet. There are a few more rounds for the back, and a round of roses (not totally made) for the back still, too, before I get to the brim. Pattern has been updated also.

>To answer a question on Irish bonnet


thread hook and rose

I have had a lot of questions recently on an Irish crochet bonnet pattern I posted a long time ago. I have not ever made all of this pattern so I have not worked through all the nuances of it, yet. I am, as time allows, working through it and redrafting the pattern as I go. I was asked to post photos of the rose in the bonnet. Top photo shows front with the thread and hook I am using; the bottom two photos are showing the back of the rose. I am currently revamping the pattern; it is posted where I have gotten to on that project.

back side

>Post to answer another Question


My to answer another question

There was a question on another blog that I read, and I am trying to answer the post here with visuals. This is sort of how it would be used because I am right handed. This should really hang from my right wrist so it feeds directly into my hand that holds my hook; I can crochet lefty, too, just don’t do it much. Anyway, because of that I use my right hand to take photos, too, so it is on my left in the picture.

This is a wrist thread-ball holder. They where popular when crochet and knitting where in the height of fashion. I have patterns for these from 1880-1920. In the center is a cabone ring on each side (not always used). This is where the thread is fed through the item, so that when you are traveling your ball does not end up on the floor and get dirty. This was a common item in most ladies’ traveling knitting/crochet bags. When a lady wanted to crochet, she would pull out the lace from the top of the bag and pull out her needle or hook that she had stabbed into the ball, and would start to work. When done, she would place the lace back into the top of the bag and re-stab her ball with needle or hook. This is also a bag that tatters would carry and do the same thing with it, except they wouldn’t stab their work, they would just place the shuttle inside the bag. Of course, for tatting the ball bag would hang on the opposite wrist than it would for crochet. So when I tat, this is the wrist it hangs on. For any of these techniques it is best to use a center-pull ball, but it’s not required.

The bag pictured above is not antique; it is one I made from an antique pattern.

Coming out of this is a piece of lace I am currently making. The pattern is from Leisure arts 111 Easy Edgings; in case anyone else wants to make it, pattern number 75. The hook size I am using is 10 this is roughly size 30 thread. The lace is actually a light khaki color and is a boil fast thread, meaning it is vintage to antique thread.

lace in progress

>English Paper Piecing Question


Flower Garden in progress - detail

This picture was posted in The English paper piecing group on flickr. A discussion arose about how to baste large hex pieces. My tutorial explained it, but visuals are better. I do have permission to show this example of how not to do it by its maker, Anne Brumley. Pictured are her first blocks; I actually think they are well made. I do not see the stitching between the blocks, her fabric choices are vibrant and lively. I just want it clear that these are well-made blocks, and the only thing I wanted to clarify was all the basting threads. All the threads you see have to be removed; there are also lots of them, which makes that time consuming and your fingers will hurt from going through the papers so much with the needle.

In the way I do it, all you have to do is cut six small threads; just six small nips of the scissors, then pull the papers out (which saves time) and just leave in the basteing threads.

front of two inch hex

So, you do a back stitch in each corner where the fabric folds over on top of itself. Then, in the middle of each side of the hex you do an ever so tiny stitch that goes through the fabric and the paper. I have made a few things with this technique, so I promise it is simple and not hard.

2 inch hex helping with example

Go all the way around in this manner; cut thread when you get back to the beginning. I hope this helps whomever does bigger pieces in English paper piecing. Below are other examples of Anne’s work; she uses silk in some of her work, and it is lovely. She picks very nice fabrics and has good hand piecing skills; she is a very nice hand seamstress.

Flower Garden in progress 1
1 inch hexagons
1 inch hexagons
On my way.  How cool is the lucky kitty fabric?

Neat tesselations with rainbow!

>pattern for the three bears

>I have been asked by several people what pattern I used to make the bears. Here it is: I bought it at a thrift store for fifty cents; it looks to be from the 1980’s.

Information on outside of pattern:

  • Called Dream Spinners
  • #118 … and The Three Bears
  • By Great American Quilt Factory, Inc.
  • makes size 17, 20 and 24 inch patterns

There are three on ebay right now for about 5 – 13 dollars, counting shipping.

Obviously, I added faces and such to the faceless bears in the pattern, and I didn’t use the fabrics they used. But then, I never follow a pattern 100% because there is no fun in that.

This is a good pattern and the pieces are a good size, making them easy to use. Looking at the picture on the package, I would have never purchased it in a store because it just didn’t interest me. I originally purchased it because it was in a bag that had lots of taffeta pieces in it that I thought I could use for a crazy quilt. That never happened; I ended up using some of those pieces in these bears (pink, blue, and cream for the ears and paws). So, I ended up actually using the fabric for what the original owner intended: a fabric bear, not a quilt. I only remembered this pattern when my children started talking about the bears. I think I have had it for 5 years, just sitting in a box not knowing what to do with it; but I saw that the pattern had potential.

>Flowers Abound


more blooms

Picked up an old project over the weekend while I was still fighting the fever. Thought it might be of interest to some. The plan is to make 3 twin-size afghans for my three girls; I have quite the ways to go, still. The thread is antique thread left over from other projects, so I never know how many blooms I will get from one left over project. It may be as many as five or as few as one or none. If none, then the smaller scrapes go into these other two projects that I am working on. The second spare scrap project is using the pattern linked to with the word “project,” but it is using thread, not chenille, and I think I am going to make a skirt out of it.

blooms in afghan

Once I make the blooms, I use left-over green to surround the flowers. After that, I use left- over cream and white thread to border the flowers. So, there aren’t any two blocks exactly the same, color-wise. The blocks alternate, white and some form of cream/ecru. I am hoping my children like these when they are done. I am debating if I have to make five and not three because we have two bedrooms that have two twin beds in them. Then I would have to make one more so each daughter ended up with two blankets apiece. This project may be getting bigger than I want it. Who knows, maybe I will make 1 real large one for my king-size bed and forget the rest of the idea. I never know ’till I get done what I will actually do with some projects, and this is one of that type of project. These, of course, are a type of granny square.


The flowers are made out of size 10 thread and knit cro sheen and any other 100% type thread that is that type of weight; even pearl cottons are in the mix. The hook is a size 6 steel hook.

I was asked for the pattern; here is where to find it:
The flowers are under copyright, still. They come from a book called “The Crochet Yearbook, Volume 2” by American School of Needlework, book 1336, page 135, ISBN 1-59012-003-5

The pattern calls for flowers ever other square and a solid colored background, not alternating cream and white. But that was just too boring and not enough color, so I threw out the blank blocks and made them all flower blocks.

>Back of mini yo-yo quilt

>.flickr-photo { border: solid 2px #000000; }.flickr-yourcomment { }.flickr-frame { text-align: left; padding: 3px; }.flickr-caption { font-size: 0.8em; margin-top: 0px; }

I have been asked what the stitches look like. When a yo yo is small, close to that of a USA quarter, then I do about 6 stitches (pretty much in one spot) and travel with needle and thread inside the yo yo to the next spot to stitch. That saves a lot on starting and stopping of the thread.

On bigger yo yo’s, I stitch as I do when doing English paper piecing joins. This makes for a join that is anywhere from 1/4 and inch long to about 1 inch long, the size of the yo yo determines how long this seam is. I also like to go over the seam two or three times because the openings in between the yo yos mean they get snagged and pulled more and the stitches are more likely to tear out. See below pictures for examples.

step#12step#13step#14back of yoyo on cd template yoyos

>Mini cd yoyos and Normal cd yoyos

>.flickr-photo { border: solid 2px #000000; }.flickr-yourcomment { }.flickr-frame { text-align: left; padding: 3px; }.flickr-caption { font-size: 0.8em; margin-top: 0px; }

I was asked what size the little cd yo yos are in comparison to ones made on a normal cd. I figured this is the easiest way to explain.

Previous Older Entries